Beauty School – Class 2: Eyes

So, we now have the perfect, flawless face to start creating our look and experimenting with colours…

We all have a different order in which we apply our make-up, but for me – once the canvas is set, I like to move on to the eyes. The eyes set the tone for your look and will determine the style you choose for your lips.

Most of us already know the rule – eyes OR lips but never both (unless you are going to an 80’s party), dark eyes and bold lips worn together can age your look so it’s always best to put the focus on just one. If you want to achieve drama with your eyes, you must choose colours to compliment your natural tones. It’s all very well following the seasons trends but you may be clashing with your skin tone and eyes…

Eye shadow guidelines:

Blue eyes – Recommendations are rich warm browns, warm taupes, soft peach colors and greys.

Brown eyes – If you want to experiment, the best eyeshadow colours are golden browns, blues, greens, greys, purples and burgundy.

Green / Hazel eyes – Golden browns, warm taupes, deep purples, soft peaches, pink, gold and soft violets work well.

Grey eyes – Try black, charcoal, deep greys, deep browns, cool browns and purple to make your grey eyes stand out.

Techniques and effects:

Add a dab of MAC Prep & Prime Eye to your lids before applying any shadow for longer stay and a more vivid effect.

Smoky

It’s a common misconception that the term Smoky eyes refer to the colour but actually it is a technique of application that can be achieved using most colours. It’s basically all about blending…

For the easiest way to get this effect, you’ll need at least 2 complimentary colours, mid tone and dark – that will clash with your eye colour for an intense look, a sharp pencil eye liner  in a darker tone as the shadows (Dior & Chanel are great for pencils – it’s important that they are soft lead to make blending easier and always kept sharp) and a dramatic mascara…

1. Use the liner first across the top of the eye lashes going as heavy or light as you like, add a little flick to the outer eye and make sure you go right in to the inner corner, then run along the inner bottom lid, skimming the bottom lashes. Smudge with a pointed brush. Don’t worry if its not perfect!

2. Next apply the mid tone shadow across the whole eye socket with a blending brush, I’ve gone for a copper shade to use as the colour base. Using the pointed brush, sweep this under the eyes, blending with the eye liner.

3. With your deepest colour shadow, work from the eye lash line with the pointed brush blending upwards – This is how you achieve the smoky effect. With the blending brush, you can keep adding your mid tone to the eye socket to intensify the shade until you reach the desired effect.

4. Finally, apply layer upon layer of your favourite mascara! Maybelline Falsies is a favourite amongst make-up artists such as Laura Bailey for creating a dramatic look, I also love Million Lashes by L’Oreal Paris.

TIP: For more drama, you can use an angled brush and the darkest eye shadow of the same colour family and stroke this across the eye liner both above and beneath the eye before applying the mascara. Add a touch of sparkly shadow just on the centre of your lid (the most protruding part when your eyes are closed) with your finger for a party look!

Au Naturel 

Never one to leave the house without make-up on, I try to keep my look quite natural at the same time as disguising any signs of tiredness! My favourite eye shadows for day time make up have to be Liz Earle, they are such gorgeous natural tones designed to compliment eye colours and not just to keep in with seasonal trends. They are reasonably matte and will stay all day, again – it’s best to invest in at least 2 shades. Check out their site (just click on the images below), they recommend the colours that will work best with your eyes.

I use Golden Sands as the base and Forest to add definition. These shades are designed to compliment my green eyes as well as keeping my look fresh and light.

I don’t really see the point in a mascara that is anything other than dramatic so again, I would apply at least 2 layers on each eye with a very subtle sweep on the lower lashes to really open my eyes.

Defined

You don’t need dark colours for dramatic eyes, liquid liner makes such a glamorous statement and is ideal if you are wanting to focus more on your lips. Best worn with a lighter eye shadow to really make the liner stand out and your eyes pop!

I use L’Oreal Paris Super Liner, it was the first one I tried and have stuck with it ever since!

TIP: Don’t stretch your eye lids with your other hand whilst trying to apply, it will give a wrinkled finish when you let go. I start from the inner corner and stroke outwards going as long as I feel with the feline flick! Do not apply underneath the eye – it’s way too harsh… 

It’s best to use a mascara that is going to elongate and separate your lashes when you are using a liquid liner, I recommend the L’Oreal Paris Telescopic. It’s crucial not to let any clumps collect on your lashes, it goes against this polished look.

False Lashes

If you want to add these, the absolute best and most natural are the Screenface Flared Individual Lashes, always use with DUO glue as it’s the best and apply a few with tweezers focusing on the outside to give the beautiful feline effect.

Eye Brows

I’ve kept this until the end but it is undoubtably the most important feature on your face. Whether you wax, pluck or thread – keep your natural brows at thick as you can and keep to your natural shape. This shape was given to you because it best compliments the other features on your face so don’t try to change it! Keep them defined with either a light (sharp) pencil or a dark eye shadow applied with an angled brush to match your natural colour. You can buy brow gel (a good one is Brow Expert by Lancome), but a simple eye brow brush and a teeny dab of vaseline will keep them in order throughout the day.

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